A bike tour of Cowal and the Isle of Bute
Touring the Cowal Peninsula in Argyll, Scotland is a delight, and we’re really enjoying exploring new routes from Dunoon with an eye on developing tour options for Lochs, Bens & Glens bike tours.
On 11 June 2025 I set out on a route that included three ferries and an island – a trip from Dunoon to the Isle of Bute via the Colintraive – Rhubodoch ferry, riding through Bute to Rothesay to catch the Rothesay – Wemyss Bay ferry, and then riding from Wemyss Bay to Gourock to get the Gourock to Dunoon ferry.
Leg 1: Dunoon to Colintraive
The Dunoon to Colintraive ride includes all of the hard stuff for the ride. It’s the longest distance at 18.5 miles, and includes the long, but gradual, climb up to the Loch Tarsan Dam, and the short, but incredibly steep, climb at Craigendive.
Once leaving Sandbank, I took a left on to the B836, which is part of National Cycle Route 75. This single track road is the road to Colintraive, Tighnabruaich, Portavadie and beyond, but it’s not too busy and quite fun on the bike. As it’s a single track, it’s imperative that all road users utilise the passing places to keep traffic flowing. Bicycles are no exception, and drivers are quite courteous when they realise that you’ll let them by at the next passing place.
The views of Glen Lean are quite spectacular as you make your way through the valley between sleeping giant hills. Forestry work has been taking place so some of the hillsides look quite rough due to logging.
After making it up to the high point of Loch Tarsan Dam, it’s a fun and quick descent down to Loch Striven. I really like this part of the road as you descend on a well paved, winding road surrounded by forest.
At the mouth of Loch Striven, I’m directed over a temporary bridge (although this bridge has been in place for almost 2 years now). To the right, the map says there are standing stones and I can just make out something in the distance.
It’s quickly on to the hardest part of the day – the Craigendive climb. This 2km climb ascends 150m with grades topping out at 19%, making it a category 3 climb. I’ve climbed this three times now, and every time I’ve had to get off my bike when it kicks up to 19%. I’m determined to climb it all one day.
Craigendive, Colintraive, United Kingdom
• Distance: 2 km, Elevation gain: 147 m, Average grade: 8.2 %
Once you’ve summited the climb, it’s smooth sailing to Colintraive. After making the left turn towards Colintraive at Auchenbreck, I chose to get off the A886 and take the road that hugs the shore. It was nice to be off an A road, but the condition of this single track is quite poor and it was a struggle on the road bike. It wouldn’t be an issue on a gravel, mountain, or touring bike with wider tyres.
I rejoined the A886 all the way into the CalMac ferry terminal at Colintraive. The Colintraive Hotel would be an option for an overnight or a bite to eat before catching the ferry to the Isle of Bute.
Ferry 1: Colintraive to Rhubodach
The Colintraive to Rhubodach may be CalMac’s shortest ferry crossing at only 3 minutes from port to port. It is serviced by a RORO (roll on roll off) ferry that departs every 30 minutes. The sailing costs £1.60 as a foot passenger, and the bike is free of charge. It was a fun little sailing, but what I can’t help thinking about is the name of Colintraive, which is Caol an t-Snàimh or “swimming narrows”, so likely people and certainly cattle were historically driven across this strait to get to and from the mainland.
Leg 2: Rhubodach to Rothesay, Isle of Bute
Rhubodach to Rothesay is only 8 miles and mostly flat along the shore. The views across the water to Knockdow and Toward on Cowal are gorgeous, and the view back to the mountains across Loch Striven are breathtaking, especially when you realise that’s where you’ve just ridden!
The ride to Rothesay went much faster than I expected. Were I to do this route again, or take a tour here, I would explore the island more, likely go out to Ettrick Bay before coming back to Rothesay to catch the ferry.
The towns of Port Bannatyne and Rothesay looked busy with lots of options for somewhere to eat and enjoy the hustle and bustle.
Ferry 2: Rothesay to Wemyss Bay
Another CalMac ferry to catch, this time a much larger one – either the Bute or Argyle. It was £4.50 for a single foot passenger. Again, the bicycle doesn’t cost extra. I stored the bike securely on the car deck and made my way up to the lounge to enjoy the views for the 35 minute sailing.
Leg 3: Wemyss Bay to Gourock
The ferry and train terminal at Wemyss Bay is famous for its Victorian architecture, but I did not stop into the train terminal to see it. I hit the road at Wemyss Bay and unfortunately, was immediately confronted with road works. A contraflow was set up at the base of the hill out of Wemyss Bay, with traffic traveling only in one direction and managed by traffic lights. I was first in the queue waiting for the light to turn green as at least 30 cars waited behind me. The thought of going up that hill with all that traffic behind me was not what I wanted, so when the light turned green, I waved the cars ahead and slipped in after the last vehicle to make my way up the hill.
After that, unfortunately more road works on what felt like a motorway. It was not a pleasant experience as a cyclist with drivers already impatient due to the contraflow systems in place.
Once I got to Inverkip Marina, I saw a sign for a coastal path bike route. I followed those signs and found myself on a shared use path (cyclists and pedestrians permitted with pedestrian priority) along the coast. While I was grateful to be off the busy road, this path was very busy as it was a sunny day. It can be quite difficult to navigate through pedestrians on a road bike, no matter how slow you’re going and how often you call out to alert people.
I rejoined the road around the Cloch Lighthouse as the cycle path was in such bad shape, it didn’t feel safe on a road bike. Luckily, it was only about 2 more miles to the Western Ferries terminal at McInroy’s Point in Gourock.
Ultimately, this section was the least pleasant, and I would not take a tour here until the roadworks were completed.
Ferry 3: Gourock to Dunoon
I took Western Ferries from McInroy’s Point in Gourock to Hunter’s Quay in Dunoon. It costs £6 for a single foot passenger, the same price at the Gourock to Dunoon ferry further down the road with CalMac. I chose Western Ferries just because I came to that ferry first, and it drops off closer to home. Both ferries are perfectly fine for foot passengers and cyclists, although the Western Ferries are more frequent with 3 sailings an hour while CalMac is down to one sailing an hour. The Western Ferries is a car ferry while CalMac is only for foot passengers and connects with the Gourock train station.
The sailing across the Clyde is stunning on a beautiful day. Keep an eye out for dolphins and submarines!
Leg 4: Home
The Western Ferries drops off only a mile or so from Sandbank, where I live and where Lochs, Bens & Glens is based. A 10 minute ride back to homebase wraps up this fun day out, with a total distance of 35 miles and about 5 hours to do with waiting for ferry connections.
Once roadworks are complete between Wemyss Bay and Gourock, I think this would be an epic e-bike tour for 2026. What do you think? Would you join us?
