An excursion around the “saintly peninsula”
First, an explanation of the name – Rosneath derives from the Gaelic Ros Neimhidh, meaning “headland of the sanctuary” or my translation, the saintly peninsula. According to F. Marian McNeill in The Silver Bough:
After the introduction of Christianity, the sacred lands of the Druids with the lands adjoining them were taken over as Church lands. The Gaelic name for Church lands, sanctuary or sacred grove is neimheadh, the name anciently given to a Druidical grove in which there was a stone shrine, a magic tree or well, or a fairy mound.
On a sunny August Monday morning, I made a last minute decision to head over to Kilcregan on the Rosneath Peninsula to do a 20 mile route I’d mapped out in OS Maps. Lance decided to join me. The Rosneath Peninsula can be seen from Dunoon, the next peninsula after Strone and separated from the Cowal Peninsula by Loch Long. So close, but so far, you can almost reach out and touch it. But if driving from Sandbank to Kilcreggan, having to circumnavigate the mountains and lochs, it takes about an hour and a half. It’s actually faster by bicycle by taking the ferry from Dunoon to Gourock and then the ferry from Gourock to Kilcreggan.
Leg 1: Dunoon to Gourock ferry
We have two choices of ferry from Dunoon to Gourock – the Western Ferries car ferry from Hunter’s Quay (Dunoon) to McInroy’s Point (Gourock) or the CalMac passenger ferry. The CalMac ferry terminal in Gourock also serves the Kilcreggan ferry so if the times match up, it’s worth taking the CalMac ferry so that you can hop on the Kilcreggan ferry at the same pier.
On this trip we chose the Western Ferries because we had missed the once-an-hour CalMac ferry (we should be back to twice an hour once the second ferry has been repaired), and Hunter’s Quay is closer to Sandbank. So it was a 5 minute cycle from Sandbank to Hunter’s Quay, a 20 minute ferry to McInroy’s Point in Gourock, and then a 5 minute cycle to the CalMac ferry port to catch the next ferry.
On all ferries, the bicycles go for free so you only need to pay as a foot passenger.
Leg 2: Gourock to Kilcreggan ferry
We jumped on The Chieftain, the small CalMac passenger ferry for the Rosneath Peninsula. We weren’t the only ones with bikes – clearly this route is known as a fun way to spend the day when the sun is out.
Leg 3: Kilcreggan to Coulport
We chose to do the loop I had mapped out in a clockwise direction. Not really any thought behind this choice and we saw plenty of other cyclists doing it in the other direction.
Heading out of Kilcreggan towards Coulport, this part of the peninsula is lined with Victorian mansions and villas, the ghosts of the past, when wealthy Glaswegians kept summer homes on the Clyde serviced by steamers. Views across Loch Long to Blairmore and Ardentinny are breathtaking. I really enjoy seeing the Cowal peninsula from a different viewpoint, whether it’s looking back at Toward from Bute or seeing Ardentinny from Cove. It’s all about perspectives, I guess.
We stopped at a beach just before Coulport to take photos and enjoy the views.
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